I re-used the original grille for the front window vent on the PISA dash. I cut off all the mounting tabs, sandblasted the old paint off, then I put on a fresh coat of black paint to match the rest of the interior. An epoxy based adhesive was used to attach the grille to the …
I’m just finishing off a few outstanding items: – Completion of the glove box with magnets. – Addition of a multi-switch plate inside the glove box – I will wire additional lighting (for car shows) to these switches in the future. – Completed the speaker mounts. – Levelled the dash gap piece with Bondo. It …
The Velcro option was not working well. So I came up with another solution – MAGNETS. I used epoxy to glue a 9″ piece of metal to the glove box door, and I secured 4 magnets to the internal adjuster plate.
The ducts were secured to the fiberglass dash using something called a Chicago nut/bolt fastener – they are also called barrel nuts/bolts. They have a very low profile, so it won’t interfere with the upholstery or the trim pieces. The couplers I glassed in are being used to connect a 2.5″ hose for the HVAC …
Not the prettiest application of fiberglass, but it works! A fresh coat of paint always makes it look better.
It took me a while to think of how I was going to keep the glove box door secured during driving. The solution was simple – VELCRO.
I dismantled the custom interior pieces from the chassis. It involved almost 2 months of custom fabrication to install the new interior, and it took a mere 20 minutes to uninstall everything. A few more pieces need to be installed on the dash, …but the upholstery stage is not that far away.
After the fiberglass cured, I pulled off the duct-tape and trimmed the edges. It will require a little more sanding and body-filler to finish, …but I’m quite pleased with how it turned out.
I decided to fix the dash gap with fiberglass, rather than rely on upholstery to cover up the misalignment. Duct-tape was used to form the shape, and act as a removable barrier. It turned out quite well.